Punjab, Delhi Sojourn
Author
Dr. K.S. Kang
My
Punjab sojourn this year was an assorted mix of visit to religious
places particularly to the shrines of Sufi saints and martyrs
associated with Indian Independence Movement and a few of military
heroes related to pre- independent and post- independent India. After
reaching Punjab after celebrating the festival of Holi the first
shrine that I visited was in the village of Chauki Mann belonged to
Sufi Saint Lakh Datar Pir. This is the village where my wife’s
mother spent her childhood. Sufism has been defined variously as
Islamic mysticism- the mystical expression of Islamic faith, the
inward dimension of Islam. It had several stages of growth including
appearance of early asceticism, the development of a classical
mysticism of divine love and the rise and the rise and proliferation
of fraternal orders of mystics. In India Sufis largely contributed to
shaping muslim society. Later some of the Sufis in India were brought
closer to Hindu mysticism by an overemphasis on the ideal of divine
unity that almost became monism- a religio- philosophic perspective
according to which there is only one fuse reality, and the
distinction between God and the world- humanity tends to disappear.
The syncretistic attempts of Mughal Emperor Akbar to combine diverse
faiths and practice and the religious discourses of Prince Dara
Shikoh were objectionable the orthodox Islam. Even the whole of
Indian Punjab is dotted with religious shrines or Khankas and Mazars
of these Sufi Saints, though ironically after partition the
management of these shrines have come in the hands of Hindu Banias
and Jat Sikhs, as most of the muslims inhabiting Punjab, except in
Malerkotla, have migrated to Pakistan. So in the absence of Muslims
the management of these shrines have been taken of local populace
consisting of Hindus and Sikhs. This sacred occasion also became a
point of trading good and commodities among the people of the
villages of surrounding areas and it also had entertainment value
both for the people of the village and the surrounding areas as a
musical concert of folk songs was going on from dawn to dusk in the
farm donated by the resident of this village. There were several
eateries in the fair, that were attracting the people and children
were attracted to towards the gaming zone where a tarpaulin was
stretched on which children jumped. More people had gathered at the
musical concert than at the Sanctum- Sanctora of the Sufi saint in
whose memory this fair was being held.
After
a couple of days we went to my native town Dharamkot- a tehsil of
Moga district. Here also I went to pay my regards on the Dargah of a
Sufi saint Abdulleh Shah, who is considered as presiding deity of our
ancestors. It was a dargah of a Muslim Sufi saint, who lived here
during 17-18th century and this place is known for
promoting harmony among the Hindus, Muslims and the Sikhs of the
area. Interestingly just by the side of main shrine there are two
graves that belonged to a muslim couple who served this saint
throughout their lives and it is said that they passed away on the
same day as their bodies were found dead in the room, so they were
buried in the same grave together. There is annual fair here also
held in the memory of this great saint in the month of June. Before
coming to Dharamkot we stayed for a couple of hours at Moga to buy a
few Punjabi novels and short stories and gift for our great grand
son, who was three years old but could make sounds only of seven
months old child. He was born in England, and as his parents were
busy in doing job so the were unable to pay attention to him as a
result of which his vocal chord could not develop properly and he
could only make sounds of animation movies on You Tube that he
watched on the mobile phone during his parent’s absence. So besides
buying books of Punjabi novels of Sardar Sohan Singh Seetal we also
bought a talking cat toy for this child. The first reaction of this
child at seeing this toy was that he giggled a lot as cat copied his
sounds and threw back those sounds at him. We also visited another
shrine of Muslim Sufi saint Lakh Datar near Baghapurana to resolve
the issue of this child. To pay respect on this shrine we went by a
hired cab and reached there in 45 minutes despite getting stuck in
traffic jam near Bahgapurana. This shrine is associated with Baba
Buddhu Shah, who earned his livelihood as a farmhand. As he was blind
so the job that he was given at the farm was to drive away the beasts
and birds that destroyed the crops, so whenever he heard any voice of
cattle or bird he used to drive it away making the sound ‘hurr’.
One day Lakh Data Pir visited this place and asked Buddhu Shah the
way to a village named Sardaran Wali Mansa. Buddhu Shah replied that
as he is blind so he cannot tell the way. Lakh Datar Peer asked him
to stand and point towards the direction of the village. A miracle
happened and Buddhu Shah got vision and not only that he could even
see the village Sardaran Wali Mansa. Seeing Lakh Datar Peer standing
near him with his Kaki mare he fell at his feet. Peer blessed Buddhu
Shad and asked him to carry on worship at this place in the village
Langian nearly 3 kms away from the town of Baghapurana. After that I
decided to participate in one of the age old custom of my ancestors
and that was to distribute the ‘Rot’ which was a large flat
bread, earlier it was roasted on the coal fire and the dung cake
fire. And before that the dough of floor with jaggery and perhaps
honey also was kneaded with young healthy man with their clean and
washed feet. But as technology has come, so now this large bread is
baked like a cake in the oven and it is cut into pieces ready to be
distributed among the people. Perhaps it was for the first time that
I followed this pious tradition of my ancestors.
After
a few days of return from Dharamkot I decided to visit the
international border with Pakistan near Husseiniwala in Ferozepur
district along with my wife and my brother-in-law who kindly agreed
to take us in his car. In fact we had made a circuit of nearly 200
kilometres so that we can meet our other relatives too like by
father’s sister family and my mother’s brother family. In the
morning after breakfast we set on this journey and reached our
destination after a couple of hours drive. At Husseiniwala, which is
nearly 10 kms away from the town of Ferozepur is famous for the
memorials of great martyrs of Indian Freedom Movement- Bhagat Singh,
Raj Guru and Sukhdev who were cremated here after they were put on
gallows at Central Prison Lahore and Prerna Sthal or Motivation Point
by Indian army in honour of the soldiers who have laid down their
lives while protecting their motherland in different operations.
Plaques were put on pillars commemoration various battles that took
place here and in the surrounding areas after independence. The first
plaque was about a conflict that took place in 1956. Heavy floods in
this year damaged a portion of Bela Bund Husseiniwala Headworks.
Indian engineers involved in the repair work were threatened by
Pakistani soldiers. At that time 4 JAK Rifles, commanded by Lt. Col
Vakil Singh, was guarding the Husseiniwala Headworks Bela. Bund was
guarded by B and C companies under Captain Hoshnak Singh and Capt.
Ajeet Singh respectively. The Battalion intervened and provided
protection to ongoing repair work. By evening that is 2100 hrs,
Pakistanis launched an unprovoked attack on on the Bund with an
infantry Brigade, a Squadron of Tanks, and an Artillery Battery. The
foe was met with a devastating fire by the troops of 4 JAK Rifles
that broke the assault. After repeated attempts and with advantage of
an overwhelming force the enemy succeeded in getting a foothold in B
company locality. A platoon of B Coy boldly launched a counter attack
led by Naik Mukhtiar Singh and routed the enemy in fierce hand to
hand combat. The determination and fierceness of the Indian troops
force Pakistani soldiers to carry out a hasty withdrawal even leaving
behind their fallen comrades. The enemy suffered heavy casualties
with 53 killed and over 200 wounded. In this operation Naik Baldev
Singh, Sepoy Surjan Singh, Sepoy Fakir Singh and Sepoy Dharam Singh
were martyred. The highest peace time award Ashok Chakra was awarded
to Lance Naik Sunder Singh and Sepoy Dhani Ram and Shaurya Chakra was
given to Hav, Sewa Singh, and Sepoy Janak Singh and Kirti Chakra was
given to Naik Mukhtiar Singh while Sena Medal was given to Lt. Col
Vakil Singh, Maj. Kant Prakash, Sub. Parshottam Singh and Sepoy
Pritam Singh. There is another plaque with the map of the area
commemorating the sacrifice of Lance Naik (Hony. Capt.) Sunder Singh
and all martyrs of 4 JAK Rif for selfless sacrifice in 1956 operation
at Husseiniwala that continues to inspire generations today.
The
second plaque commemorates Battle of 1965 with Pakistan. In this war
soldiers of 2 Maratha LI, was given task to defend Husseiniwala
enclave and prevent the capture of Samadhi of Bhagat Singh, Rajguru
and Sukhdev along with the Husseiniwala Head Works. On 6th
September 1965, Pakistani soldiers started heavy shelling along the
frontier. In reply 2 Maratha LI launched an assault and captured an
enemy post named Kikar, which dominated Husseiniwala Barrage. On the
night of 18th September, a patrol under 2 Lt. Feroz Doctor
got input about an enemy build up in area of Ganda Singhwala, which
helped in preparing own defence. On the night of 19-20th
September Pakistani army launched an attack with Infantry Battalion
supported with tanks. The main assault came on the company located
near the Samadhi and a joint attack on company, which was deployed on
approach to Husseiniwala Barrage. The enemy could not make gains
towards Samadhi due to valiant resistance of Indian soldiers and
effective fire from our Recoilless guns and Medium Machine Guns. On
the night of 20-21 September the enemy attacked once again with
renewed vigour. However this attack was repulsed by the inspired
Marathas. In this battle Pakistan lost two Shermon tanks and suffered
heavy casualties with 42 killed and over 200 wounded. In this
operation Lt. Col. T.T.A Nolan, Lt. P.S. Rana, Naik Vitthal Patil,
Naik Vishnu Kadam, Naik Shamrao Chavan, Lance Naik Narayan More,
Sepoy Daga Nikam, Sepoy Banda More, Sepoy Raghunath Chalke, Sepoy
Shankar Bhonsle, Sepoy Baba Falke, Sepoy Vasu Naik, Sepoy Manas
Pasis, were martyred and Sepoy Shankar Bhonsle and Sepoy Daga Nikam
were awarded Senal Medals.
There
is a plaque commemorating the Battle of Assal Utttar during with
Pakistan in 1971. It is also popularly known as Battle of Khemkaran.
This battle was the largest tank to tank battle in the history of
Indian army that turned the tide of 1965 war in favour of India. The
Pakistani army by first week of September 1965 had captured the
Indian town of Khemkaran in Punjab. After the fall of Khemkaran on
September 10, 1965, the Indian forces positioned three armoured
Regiments with 45 M4 Shermon Tanks, 45 AMX 13 Tanks, and 45 Centurion
Tanks outside the village of Assal Uttar, 12 kms from the town of
Khemkaran. The units camouflaged their tanks effectively in sugarcane
fields, and approaches were flooded and made swampy. Unaware of it,
over confident Pakistanis advanced towards Assal Uttar and their
tanks were bogged down in the swamp. Opening fire from their
camouflaged hideouts, at ranges as short as 500 yards, the Indian
tanks were able to decimate the Pakistan’s Patton Tanks. The
entrapped enemy fled the field in complete disarray. The enemy lost
97 tanks, including 72 Patton Tanks in this battle. They left behind
32 tanks in running condition while Indians lost 10 tanks in this
battle. This battle saw the bravery of Company Quarter Master
Havildar Abdul Hamid who was awarded Param Vishisht Sewa Medal as he
made supreme sacrifice in this battle. Other people who were martyred
in this battle were Maj. Surendra Prasad, Hav. I. B. Gurung, Naik
Jagdish Singh, LD Sahib Singh, LD Tarsem Singh, LD Sahib Singh SM,LD
Kartar Singh, LD Manohar Singh, LD Jit Singh, LD Harbans Singh, and
Masalchi Makodu. Mahaveer Chakra was given to Brig. T.K Theoraj from
62 CAV, Lt. Col. Raghubir Singh, 18 RAJ Rif and Lt. Col. Salim Caleb
3 CAV. Veer Chakra was given to Maj. N.G. David, Maj. S.C. Vadera
from 3 CAV, Maj. R.S. Sharma, Capt. Prabhu Singh, Naik Jagdish Singh
and Lance Naik Bhanwar Singh from 18 RAJ Rif, and Maj. M.A. Zaki,
Maj. S. Prashad from 19 Maratha LI, and Lt. Teja Singh from 9 JAK
Rif, 2 Lt. C.S. Nair from Engineers and Naib Subedar B. Ambhore from
2 Mahar and Ris. Acchar Singh, Df. Tarlok Singh from 9th
Horse , Hav. I.B. Gurung from 1/9 GR, and L. Hav. K.G George form
Signals. Sena medal was given to Ris. Nihal Singh, Naib Risaldar
Jagdev Singh, Naib Risaldar Bakshish Singh, Naib Risaldar Nasib
Singh,Swr Daya Chand, Swr. Nek Singh, Swr. Udmi Singh and LD Sahib
Singh from 3 CAV. There is also First Patiala War memorial with hymns
of Guru Gobind Singh ji inscribed on it which was inaugurated by
Capt. Amarinder Singh, the then Chief Minister of Punjab in 2006.
There
is also a plaque in honour of martyrs of 1971 war in Battle of
Husseiniwala against Pakistan. During this time 15 Punjab (First
Patiala) was tasked to defend Husseiniwala enclave so as to prevent
the capture of Head Works here. The most vulnerable part, currently
near the BSF Checkpost was given to D Coy under Maj. Kanwaljit Singh
SC. The approach astride the main road, including the Samadhi tower
area was with C Coy under Maj. SPS Waraich. At 1835 hrs, on 3rd
December 1971 enemy began shelling with entire Corps Artillery
against two companies followed by an attack by four infantry
battalions and a Squadron of tanks. Fierce battle raged throughout
the night with each company repeatedly beating back despite repeated
enemy assault. At dawn the hostile forces had overrun both the
companies and were nearly at the doorstep of the Samadhi. At this
time Medium Machine Gun section stationed on the tower of Samadhi,
under Naik Surjeet Singh, realising the peril, fought valiantly and
beat back several enemy attempts to capture Samadhi till their
ammunition lasted. The valiant Punjabis withstood gallantly the
overwhelming hostile force, but as the position became precarious,
they were ordered to withdraw from the enclave. Fifteen Punjab lost
two officers and 53 soldiers, while it is estimated that Pakistani
army lost more than 300 soldiers. People who made supreme sacrifice
in this battle are Maj. Kanwaljit Singh SC, Maj. SPS Waraich, Hav.
Jagir Singh, Hav. Gurbachan Singh, Hav. Balwant Singh, Hav. Randhir
Singh, Hav. Sucha Singh, Hav. Darshan Singh, Lance Hav. Kartar Singh,
Naik Bir Singh, Naik Amrik Singh, Naik Balkar Singh, Naik Mela Singh,
Pritam Singh, Harkirat Singh, Piara Singh, Darshan Singh, Sarwan
Singh, Jarnail Singh and Sepoys Pritam Singh, Chinnda Singh,
Nacchatar Singh, Sukhdev Singh, Avtar Singh, Dharam Singh, Balbir
Singh, Prem Singh, Surjit Singh, Kuldeep Singh, Rajpal Singh,
Nacchtar Singh, Nishan Singh, Daler Singh, Chur Singh, Naranjan
Singh, Swaran Singh, Surinder Singh, Jaspal Singh, Raghubir Singh,
Makhan Singh, Nirmal Singh, Raghbir Singh, Prakash Singh, Jai Ram,
Sulakahan Singh, Mohendra Singh Harish pal Singh, Kashmir Singh,
Harnam Singh, Ayodhya Prasad, and Pritam Singh. Names have not been
repeated, as it would seem but some persons were having same names.
There
is also a building here showcasing a coach of a train that ran
between Firozepur and Kasur before independence. One of the coach of
that train has been preserved by constructing a room around it
symbolising the bridge that was blown off by Indian army during 1965
war. The chief attraction of this place is the Samadhi or cenotaph of
three great martyrs of Indian Freedom Movement- Bhagat Singh,
Rajguru, and Sukhdev. This place has statues of these three great
martyrs who embraced martyrdom to achieve independence from British
rule. There is also memorial of another freedom fighter and colleague
of Bhagat Singh named Butkeshwar Dutt, who was arrested along with
Bhagat Singh for throwing bomb in the assembly to protest against the
foreign rule in India, but he was released on medical grounds. In his
last will Dutt expressed his wish to be cremated near the place where
his three revolutionary friends Bhagat Singh, Rajguru and Sukhdev
have been cremated. These revolutionaries were sentenced to death by
a Britishers court in India for firing on police officer Sanders that
came to be known as Lahore Conspiracy Case. Bhagat Singh, Rajguru and
Sukhdev were hanged on the evening of March 23, 1931. At that time a
great crowd had collected outside Central Jail Lahore in their
support. So authorities sensing rebellion quietly put these
revolutionaries to death and smuggled their bodies in sacks through
the back gate of the jail by breaking the inner wall of the jail and
crossed the River Sutlej and cremated them at Husseiniwala near
Ferozepur hurriedly without performing any proper religious rites.
Shri Bhatukeshwar Dutt, Bhagat Singh’s revolutionary colleague,
passed away on July 19, 1965 at Delhi and as per his last wish he was
also cremated here. Just beside the Samadhi of these great freedom
fighters is the samadhi of Bhagat Singh’s mother who was given the
title of Punjab Mata. Here a flame is burning continuously.
After
paying regards at these historical sites of modern Indian history of
20th century, we proceeded towards another signifiant
village Bargari, that had been in name in recent years as some
anti-social element has defiled the purity of Shri Guru Granth Sahib
by tearing some of the leaves from this holy book at a village Burj
Jawahar Singh near Bargari. Here we had come to meet my relatives as
family of my father’s sister reside here. Here we were overjoyed to
get the news of the arrival of new member in the family in the form
of grandson of my cousin. After taking lunch, tea and snacks we moved
from this place towards my birth place Parao Mehna, where my mother
spent her childhood. Here we came to meet my mother’s brother’s
son and his family that was residing here. As it was quite darkness
when we left Mehna so without making any further delay we returned
back to our base at Sujapur.
After
a couple of days I and my brother-in-law went to see the memorial of
Saragarhi battle Hav, Issar Singh, at his village Jhorran. As this
place was not very far off from the place of our stay so we went
there on scooter. A film Kesari has been made about this battle in
which Akshay Kumar has performed the role of Hav. Issar Singh. Hav.
Issar Singh joined 36th Sikhs of British Indian army that
was created under the command of Col. J. Cook that consisted entirely
of Jat Sikhs from Punjab. In August 1897 five companies of this
regiment were sent to NWFP under Lt. Col John Haughton and were
stationed at Samana Hills, Kuraj, Sangar, Saktop Dhai, and Saragarhi.
The British had partially succeeded in controlling this volatile
area, but tribal Pashtuns continued assaulting it from time to time.
Thus a series of fort built by famous Sikh Emperor Maharaja were
consolidated. Two of the forts were Fort Lockhart, on the Samana
range of the Hindu-Kush Mountain Range and Fort Gulistan on Sulaman
Range. As these two forts were not visible from each other so
Saragarhi was put up midway between these two as a heliographic
communication post. This Saragarhi post, situated ona rocky ridge
consisted of a small block house with loopholed rampart and a
signalling tower. A general uprising by the Afgans began in 1897 and
between 27th August and 11 September many vigorous
assaults of Pashtus were repulsed by these soldiers. In 1897 inimical
and insurgent activities had increased, and on 3rd and 9th
September Afridi tribesmen allied with Afgans attacked Fort Gulistan.
Both these attacks were repulsed and a relief column from Fort
Lockhart, on its return trip reinforced the signalling detachment
stationed at Saragarhi, increasing its strength to three NCO’s and
Eighteen other ranks. This battle of Saragarhi was a last stand
battle before the Tirah Campaign between British Indian Empire and
Afgan tribesmen. On September 12, 1897 an estimated 12000-24000
Orakzai and Afridi tribesmen were seen near Gogra, at Samana Suk, and
around Saragarhi, cutting off Fort Gulistan from Fort Lockhart. The
Afgans swarmed the fort and surrounded it and assaulted this outpost
of Saragarhi. Sepoy Gurmukh Singh signalled to Col Haughton that they
were under attack from Afgan tribesmen. Col Haughton sent the reply
that he was unable to send immediately to Saragarh so they can leave
the fort if they like. But these 22 soldiers led by Hav. Issar Singh
decided to the fight to the last to prevent the foe from reaching the
fort. Sepoy Bhagwan Singh was first to be martyred in this battle.
Naik Lal Singh, though seriously wounded and Sepoy Jiva Singh brought
the body of Bhagwan Singh inside the fort. The Afgans broke a portion
of wall of picket. Col.Haughton signalled to them that the estimated
strength of the enemy was 10000-14000. The leaders of the Afgan
forces reportedly made promises to the soldiers to surrender. Two
vigorous attempts were made to break the gate of the fort but in
vain. But the wall of the fort was breached that followed some of the
fiercest hand to hand combat between Afgan tribesmen and these
soldiers. Hav. Issar Singh ordered his men to retreat to the inner
wall of the fort while remained in front to give them cover for
retreat. After the inner layer of the post was breached all but one
soldier were killed but after killing numberless Afganis. Sepoy
Gurmukh Singh, who was communicating the signals of the battle to
Col. Haughton was the last defending soldier. His last message to
Colonel was the permission to pick up rifle. Upon getting the
permission, he packed up his heliograph and shut the door of his
signalling shed. With his weapon he killed a number of Pashtuns as a
result of which they decided to set fire to the shed so as to kill
him. And he embraced martyrdom yelling “ Bole so Nihal, Sat Sri
Akal. Though everybody had died at Saragarhi and Pashtuns succeeded
in capturing but the stiff resistance give by these soldiers to
Afgans delayed their attempts to capture Fort Gulistan and Fort
Lockhat, as originally planned. They could keep control on Saragarhi
only for 48 hours, as British relief force reoccupied it with the
help of artillery by routing Pashtuns soundly. The weapons given to
these soldiers were of old generation compared to the small arms
issued to the white troops, which was intentionally done as a
precaution to prevent another mutiny after the revolt of 1857. As we
were returning from this place we saw a memorial that has been put up
a well-off family of the neighbouring family, known in the area by
the name of Currie family, some of whose members have settled abroad
in U.K. This memorial is just three pillars standing in their farm
with the name and pictures of their family members and names
inscribed on it. It includes three or four generations from 1960 to
2020. While we were returning from Punjab I observed that a number of
statues of the army soldiers who had lost their lives in some
operation just outside the village to which they belonged. One such
memorial was statue of Balwant Singh Baraich who was born in 1977 and
achieved martyrdom during Kargil war in 1999 at the age of 22 years.
He is portrayed in the statue in army olive green uniform holding
AK-47 in his hand and a backpack behind. This memorial is just
outside Baraich village to which Balwant Singh belonged.
We
left Punjab and came to Sonepat in Haryana, where my elder son works
as a Law Professor at a private university. We stayed here a couple
of days. One day he took us to Delhi in his car to see Ferozshah
Kotla, Old Fort and Gurudwara Rikab Ganj. First of all we went to
see Ferozshah Kotla which was built 1354 by Sultan Feroz Shah
Tughlaq. Today it is almost in ruins except some structures standing
in its precincts. It is situated on the banks of River Yamuna that
provided water needs of the people residing here. It is also known
for a famous 3rd B.C Ashoka Pillar put on slightly raised
ground, Jami Masjid and a Baoli or a step well catering to the water
needs of populace living here. About Asoka Pillar and the pyramidal
structure it has been said that this lofty structure was built three
stages with size diminishing in each successive storey, consisting of
cells with arched entrances in 1358 by Feroze Shah Tughlaq and the
Ashok Pillar was installed on the top of this structure. This pillar
which is believed to be of the year 273-236 B.C was removed by the
Sultan from Topra in Ambala district and a similar second pillar is
stationed at present near Hindu Rao Hospital at Ridge, was brought
from Merrut. It was transported to this site, wrapped in silk cotton
cloth, then it was lowered into a bed prepared for it, then it was
encased in reeds and raw skins. It was carried in 42 wheels carriage.
A strong rope was fastened to each wheel and 200 men pulled each of
these ropes. It was taken to the bank of River Yamuna where Sultan
personally checked Transportation arrangements. From here it was
carried to Firozabad in large boats and conveyed into Kushan. The
pyramidal structure was built in stages. When a storey was finished
the column was raised on it and repeated in the same manner in
succession until it reached the intending terrace. After the
installation of the pillar some ornamental friezes in black and white
stones were placed around its capital and over this was raised a
gilded copper copula or a Kalash which is now missing. Originally
this pillar was enclosed with stone railings. The Ashoka edicts of
this column in Brahmi script were first of all deciphered in 1837 by
James Prinsep. Besides other minor records of pilgrims and travellers
inscribed on it during different centuries, the one in Sanskrit
engraved in 1163 A.D records conquests of Chauhan prince Vishal Dev.
The
remains of the congregational mosque of the citadel- Jami Masjid-
stands today belying the fact that it was quite spectacular in its
own time. It is an octagonal domed structure built during the reign
of Sultan Ferozeshah Tughlaq in 14th century. It reflects
typical architectural style of the Tughlaq dynasty characterised by
massive proportions, sloping walls and less ornamentation. The
structure is made primarily of rubble masonry. The doorway was
decorated with carved stones that no longer exists. An interesting
feature of this structure are the chambers at the lower level. Timur
was so much impressed by it that he is said to have built a similar
mosque at his capital Samarkand using craftsmen from India. The
historic palace of Ferozeshah now stands in ruins. The walls of the
citadel are 15 feet high and have a slight slope on the outside. The
top parapets have now disappeared but the arrow slits can still be
seen. The contemporary historian of this era had identified parts of
that palace by different names like Palace of the Clay Court which
was meant for the emperor’s court attended by nobles, officials and
distinguished literary personages. Palace of the wooden galleries on
overhang was for the officers of the emperor, and the Palace of the
Public Court was the site where emperor held court for the common
people. Apart from these the private areas of the palace were meant
for the residence of the emperor and his family members. It is likely
that the surfaces at one time were covered with fine lime plaster
which was decorated by carving and printing in diverse colours.
The
Baoli or the well was an essential source of water for the citadel.
Unlike other step wells this baoli does not have steps leading down
to the water level. It is a circular well open to the sky with a
provision to lift water in a bucket on a pulley. Around this wall two
storeys of rooms are arranged. A complex system of pipes and channels
pumped the water to the roof and from there to the outside, where it
might have been used for watering the garden and other uses. The roof
probably was topped by Chattris- pillared kiosks- and surrounded by
railing serving as a recreational space.
After
seeing the Ferozshah Kotla we went to visit National Handicrafts Fair
and on the way we got the passing view of Purana Qila or Old Fort. It
is one of the Oldest forts, primarily built by Mughal Emperor and
Sher Shah Suri between 1530 and 1540, though evidences present in it
suggest human habitation in it dating back of 3rd Century
B.C. It served as a citadel for Humanyun’s city- Dinpanah, and is
widely believed to be situated on the site of legendry Pandava
Capital city of Inderprastha. Sher Shah Suri conquered it by
defeating Humayun and renamed it as Shergarh and continued building
completing many structures visible today like Qita-i- Kuhna mosque.
Besides the mosque the popular structures are the Baz Darwaza,
Talaqui Darwaza or forbidden gate and Humayun Darwaza, all built in
red sandstone and a double storied octagonal red sandstone tower
known as Sher Manda that became cause of Humayun’s death. It was
initially an observatory and library and Humayun fell from its steps
and died. Today, this place is a popular historical site hosting
sound and light shows, boating etc. By the time we reached National
Crafts Museum and Hastkala Academy it was time for lunch. So first of
all we entered a restaurant, situated in its premises and had a good
and hearty lunch. After a satisfying lunch of Cuthel Biriyani and
Ragi Bada Pav and Ragi Dhokla, we went to see various pavilions
related to armoury, paintings, crockery, Idol section, Wood craft
section, textile section and the like. We found the wooden craft
section and the houses of various rural tribes of India built outside
the exhibition quite interesting. After buying a few articles and we
came out of it and proceeded towards the historical Gurudawara
Rakabganj Sahib.
This
historical Gurudwara is associated with Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji- the
Ninth Guru of the Sikhs. At this place sacred headless body was
reverentially cremated by a trader named Lakhi shah Banjara, when he
was martyred by Aurangzeb on 11th November 1675. Bhai
Jaita ji took the head of the body respectfully to Sri Anandpur Sahib
where it was cremated and the rest of the body was taken by Bhai
Lakhi Shah Banjara to his house and set fire to it cremating the body
with it. The place where Gurudwara stands today was the house of
Lakhi Shah Banjara. He collected the ashes in an urn and kept it
underground in his burnt house. Later when Delhi was conquered by
Sardar Baghel Singh in 1763, he identified historical places related
to the Sikhs and established the memorial of this also. Rakabganj is
a small village so that gave this name to Gurudwara. After the revolt
of 1857, a wall of Sikh loyalists was constructed around the
memorial in 1714. In 1914 it was demolished by Britishers so as to
construct new buildings and structures for the new capital of British
Raj. After ceaseless efforts from Sikh leaders, Gurudwara was
renovated by S. Harnam Singh Suri of Pusa Road on 8th
January 1955. As it was dusk by the time we came out of Gurudwara
after paying our regards and tribute so we returned back to our base
in Harayana at Sonepat, where my elder son teaches law in a private
university.
After
staying for a couple of days at Sonepat, my son took us in his car to
Jaipur, where we saw the iconic park of Mansarovar- The City Park.
Though we had seen it earlier too but still we saw some new
structures that had come in it like a chocolate brown clock tower
that had come at the south entrance of the park and a new pavilion in
the centre west side of the park. Our sojourn ended with a ride on
Volvo A.D Bus that brought us back to our home town- Chittorgarh.